#34 – ROSEJAT RÁPIDA at SALINAS

For the third year in a row, I’m going to attempt to eat every single item on Time Out New York’s annual 100 Best Dishes list. In no particular order, here’s my take on their Top 100. Let the gluttony continue…

When Salinas opened last year, its chef Luis Bollo was welcomed back (he cooked at the acclaimed Meigas in 1999) with open arms for bringing authentic Spanish cuisine to New York. The dark, loungy restaurant is nestled on the parameters of two very hip and seemingly exclusive neighborhoods, Chelsea and the Meatpacking District. When we walked in without a reservation on a Friday night, the host hinted at how lucky we were to be able to get a table.

I was surprised by the clientele at this hot spot. We were definitely the youngest people in the restaurant (aside from the lukewarm servers), but the vibe had a very young, hip feel begging for people to be looked at. But to be honest, there was nobody terribly interesting to watch.

So instead we focused on the food. Most of the menu is comprised of tapas, but the list item (which turns out to be Time Out’s Number One choice) is their signature entrée: rosejat rápida. I ordered it in my best Spanish accent and the server didn’t seem to understand me. He blamed the volume in the restaurant. I know it couldn’t have been my pronounciation: I had four years of Spanish in high school. Dios mío!

The word salinas refers to a body of salt water and it was very apropos since everything we tasted was overwhelmingly salty. We started with the pumpkin and chicken soup, which was nice and warming, but nothing special and comically small for $11. The octopus was the first dish to really offend with its salinity. The sliced poached octopus was tender and almost similar to a carpaccio in texture, but the sautéed greens tasted as if a salt shaker had exploded near by.

The salt overload continued with brussels sprouts and cauliflower. It was saved by a tangy citrus zest and mint yogurt, but unfortunately those components were limited to one side of the plate. I didn’t experience them until halfway through my portion. The classic patatas brava were bold and flavorful – perhaps the best dish of the night.

Our list item was quite filling, thankfully, since we already spent a fortune and I was worried about having enough food. The Rosejat Rápida is a play on a classic Spanish dish, but it reminded me of a cross between paella and a tomatoey can of Chef Boyardee.

No rice was present, but instead we got some really interesting fideo pasta, which is very similar to short and thin vermicelli. Most of the noodles were soft and toothsome, while a few strands were toasted and crunchy. I really enjoyed this texture play and wish there was more of it. Chorizo, poached chicken, and four miniscule clams made up the protein, while a bright and smoky saffron aioli along with sofrito spicened things up a bit. It was an interesting dish with some unique textures, but nothing about it made me think “one of the best dishes of the year.”

To be perfectly honest, I wouldn’t return to Salinas. The food was alright, but rather pricey and overly salty. While some of the NY food world may claim Chef Bollo has finally brought Spanish food back to the city, I’m happy to walk a few blocks and re-visit Tia Pol or Txikito, which have been modestly cooking this type of food for years.

Would Salinas’ Rosejat Rápida make my Top 100 of the Year? It earns a 7 out of 10 for lovely textures and mild flavors, but other than that it really didn’t stand out too much for me.