#51 – SALT AND PEPPER FRIES at THISTLE HILL TAVERN

Once again Time Out New York released their Top 100 Dishes of the year and once again, I’m going to eat my way through every one. And no price point or subway delay will stop me. In no particular order, here’s my take on their Top 100.

SADLY, THISTLE HILL TAVERN IS NOW CLOSED.

French fries are a very personal thing. Some people like them thick, some thin, some soft and potato-y, others crispy and crunchy. I prefer mine somewhere in the middle with a real brown crispy exterior and a soft, starchy inside. Although if I have to lean to one side, I’d rather them burned to a crisp.

There are a handful of french fries on Time Out’s list this year, but perhaps the most simple are the Salt and Pepper Fries at Thistle Hill Tavern. This little bare bones neighborhood bistro in Park Slope is strangely co-owned by Fat Mike from the ’90’s hard rock band NOFX yet you’d never know it by the old school and sedate ambiance.

We had been here a few months back and I wasn’t overly impressed by the simple food and the price to portion ratio. And in all likelihood, if it wasn’t for the Time Out list I probably wouldn’t have returned.

But here we were once again and the menu hasn’t changed much. The typical bistro fare was still represented: pasta, pork chop, mussels, salads, and burgers. A little concerned we’d spend a lot again and still leave hungry, we opted for a burger since burgers are generally pretty filling. And of course, we had to have a side order of those fries.

Now for something to make my Top 100 they have to stand out and give me at least a moment of oral excitement. These fries did not do that. That’s not to say they were bad. They weren’t. They were hand cut thick from fresh potatoes and fried to a golden brown. They tasted like fries I would get at any decent bar across the city. And I wouldn’t complain.

But since this is supposedly Top 100 material, I have a few criticisms. The ketchup they were served with was supposedly homemade, but I couldn’t tell the difference from the sugary bottled variety. In fact I favored the spicy mustard they served with our burger. The fries were missing a crispy exterior, although there were a few toward the bottom that produced an exciting crunch. One or two of the fries were a little undercooked and were a bit too starchy for my tastes. But the biggest problem were that the Salt and Pepper Fries were not terribly salty or peppery. It wasn’t until I licked my hands that I realized they were seasoned at all.

The rest of our meal was an improvement on our previous visit (which was shortly after they opened). The burger was nicely charred, juicy, and came to life with a delicious slice of smoked cheddar. It was still a little small for the $15 price tag, but I didn’t leave hungry this time. I also really enjoyed the Kale and Arugula Salad, which started off rather aggressive with heavy dressing and a lot of flavors. But by the end, I was digging the light sprinkling of dill, the tart crunch of the pomegranate seeds, and the fantastically creamy and citrusy goat cheese.

Since it’s a bit of a train ride for me, I still probably won’t return to Thistle Hill Tavern (unless there’s a Time Out list item item next year), although the food is fine for the neighborhood and I understand the appeal of having a place like this near home. And their fries are tasty and I managed to eat the entire order, but for my french fry tastes, I need something a little more special for them to stand out.

Would Thistle Hill Tavern’s Salt and Pepper Fries make my Top 100 of the year? There’s nothing really wrong with them and they are perfectly adequate french fries, but nothing about them stands out so they get a 6 out of 10 since I probably would have forgotten about them by tomorrow.