I think I can live in this city forever and still discover new nooks, crannies, and hidden neighborhoods in the sky.
Tudor City is exactly that. I came to Convivio last year (when I was attempting to consume all of TONY’s 2008 list items) and was amazed to discover this three block stretch of beautiful residental apartments and hidden gardens. It’s truly an enclave in the sky and as far as I can gather, Convivio is the only restaurant in the neighborhood.
Michael White is the chef, who has received many accolades earlier this year for Marea. Like that seafood palace, this is high-end modern Italian cuisine with expensive pasta and meat dishes. And since we didn’t have the time or money to spend on one of their prix-fixe options (plus I felt a little underdressed in shorts and a T-shirt), we made ourselves comfortable at their secluded bar. It feels almost like a hotel bar but with dark red lights and bizarre photos on the wall harking back to the Old Country.
Our bartender was very nice (if a bit stiff) and even asked me about my Troëgs (a PA craft brewery) T-shirt. Not only was I not underdressed, but I was a conversation starter!
We ordered a fantastic cocktail called the Diplomat, which was a perfect combination of sweet Four Roses bourbon, spicy Antica Formula, bitter Cynar, and tart orange bitters. We also decided to splurge on one of their more interesting pasta options – Malloreddus (saffron gnochetti, crab meat, sea urchin). That wasn’t a great idea. It was not worth the $25 price tag. There was barely any crab meat and the sea urchin must have been mixed into the sauce for some richness because I couldn’t find any pieces. The flavors were also rich and not as complex as I’d expect from a place like this. Eh.
But the side order of Pecorino Potate that made Time Out’s list were a lot more successful. They come in at Number Eight on their Top Ten (so we’ve now completed their ten best) and while I don’t think they were quite that good, they were still rather addicting. These were slices of potatoes that were so crispy and seasoned that I couldn’t help but fill up on carbs.
Time Out claims they are twice roasted, but if these puppies are not fried, I’m amazed. They had a perfect crust that gave way to a warm, starchy potato slice. I think the only seasoning was salt, pepper, and some parsley. They could have used maybe a squeeze of lemon or a dipping sauce. But these were a delicious snack that was a gourmet combination of french fries, chips, and potato skins.
If only I could afford to live in Tudor City, I’d sit at the bar at Convivio every day. I guess then I could also afford more than just a beer T-shirt and shorts.
Would Convivio’s Pecorino Potatoes make my Top 100 of the year? I had a hard time not shoving them all in my mouth, but they could have used one more component to brighten them to perfection. Either way, they get an 8 out of 10.
