TONY's 100 Best '09

#32 – TARTE FLAMBEE at BENOIT

Okay, so when it comes to Tarte Flambées, I am definitely a little bit jaded.  For those uninitiated, a tarte flambée is an Alsatian flat bread with smoked bacon, softened onions, and créme fraîche.  I feel like I’m at work. You see, at The Modern (where I work), our Chef Gabriel Kreuther is Alsatian and his tarte flambée (which made Time Out’s list last year) is by far the most popular item on our menu.

And if you’ve never had the Tarte Flambée at The Modern, you really must.  It’s like a very thin-crust pizza (don’t tell my managers I said that) with just the right amount of smoky bacon balanced with those sweet onions and the slight tartness from the creme fraîche.  It’s really amazing.  I eat one every chance I get at work.  Well, because they’re delicious and also generally because I’m starving after working an 8 hour shift and would eat just about anything.

And because I feel like I’ve been ruined by Chef Kreuther (I have tried two other flambées in the city with much disappointment), it was with trepidation and curiosity that I went to the French brasserie Benoit,which is strangely just two blocks away from The Modern, to try their tarte flambée (which made Time Out’s list this year).

I’ve never been a fan of these big brasseries.  They strike me as the French man’s diner, with menu items all over the place.  And I feel like if you’ve been to one, you’ve been to them all (it all seems to be the same few dishes).  But we sat at the bar at Benoit and it did feel very warm and comfortable.

And then came the flambée.  I can’t help compare it to The Modern’s (and if you’ve tried ours, you would do the same).  First off, it was rectangular instead of round.  The crust was thin, but not as crackery as I come to expect.  The problem was the lack of varied and balanced flavors.  It tasted like white pizza and nothing more.  The bacon was a bit too thick, the onions were not sweet or flavorful enough, and the creme fraîche didn’t have that bite I hoped for. There was nothing wrong with this version, but I know how much more spectacular it can be.  Once again, work has ruined me.

Would Benoit’s Tarte Flambée make my Top 100 of the year?  The Modern’s version would any year.  It’s really incredible and after tasting that one for so long, Benoit’s is really nothing special.  If you like white pizza and thick bacon, then you’ll probably like it, but I have been ruined so it gets a 5 out of 10.

AboutBrian Hoffman

Brian Hoffman is a classically trained actor who is now a full-time tour guide, blogger, and food obsessive. He leads food and drink tours around New York City, which not only introduce tour-goers to delicious food, but gives them a historical context. He has written food articles for Gothamist and Midtown Lunch in addition to overseeing this blog and a few food video series, including Eat This, Locals Know, and Around the World in One City. His latest series is an international cooking show with his son which can be found on this site.

3 Comments

  1. Dude, the best flambe (next to the MODERN) that i’ve seen, is at this place in Astoria -“718”. Not the best name, but the flambe is exceptional and may i say- not as greasy as the MODERN’s. That was something i always felt when eating their’s THE INEVITABLE GREASE DRIP. But 718’s flambe has got a healthy side to it…kind of.

  2. Hey Rick. I have to completely disagree about the grease on the Modern’s. Maybe an overabundance of creme fraiche, but I never found it greasy. I have heard of and walked by 718 so many times. I’ll have to try their flambee soon enough. I’ve also heard Klee has a good one. But I’ve yet to taste one that rivals The Modern’s.

  3. Connaissez vous le restaurant “la tarte flambée” 1750 second avenue ?
    C’est la meilleure de tout New York, qualité, pour tous les goûts. Le cadre est chaleureux et le patron un alsacien de pure souche.

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