BREWERY REVIEW in New York: Coney Island Brewing Company

SADLY, CONEY ISLAND BREWING COMPANY IS NOW CLOSED.

Most people only go out to visit Coney Island in the summer. Very few actually see it when only the residents are around in the dead of winter. It’s a very different place. I kind of like it because it’s quiet and nostalgic as the shops and rides await the tourist season a few months away.

I’ve been out to Coney Island a few times in the freezing cold – most recently to visit the newest iteration of Coney Island Brewing Company.

This brewery has undergone quite a few changes. It was originally the mastermind of Schmaltz’s Jeremy Cowan and concentrated on lagers brewed in a commercial brewery upstate. Then, in 2011 they opened an experimental outpost where they had a rotating roster of home brewers produce crazy one-off’s like an Apple Coconut Saison and a Rye Pumpernickel Bagel Porter. Unfortunately, that facility was destroyed in Hurricane Sandy and Jeremy sold the brewery to Boston Beer Company.

A few years ago they started brewing once again in Boston and have become quite popular in the local scene for their widely available bottled beers. Most recently, they opened a brand new facility out on Coney Island, this time attached to the Brooklyn Cyclones’ stadium featuring a small production room and an even smaller tasting room. Tours are offered throughout the week and anybody (over 21, of course) can stop by for a beer or a flight.

I found out that their bottled beers are still brewed off-site but everything poured in the tasting room (and there are some exclusives) is made right there on Coney Island.

As expected, the space has a bit of a carnival, boardwalk theme and it’s a lot of fun and kitschy. But thankfully, the beers are more than just a gimmick.

Pints are just $6, but I opted for a flight. And the bartender was even generous enough to work it out so I had two half flights so I was able to work my way through their entire line-up.

Not sure if this option would be available for everyone, but it was a slow and cold evening and they were happy to suggest it.

It began with one of their signature beers called the Mermaid Pilsner. The golden beer had a bit of funk on the nose, but it drinks very crisp and light. It’s a very effervescent and easy drinking brew and I was surprised to taste some fruit, which is out of character for a pilsner. It was still very easy to drink and a nice start to the line-up.

Next I discovered a style that I don’t know much about. It’s a Russian Imperial Kvass. Giving a nod to the local Russian community, this is based off an historic drink. It might have been my favorite sample of the day with a very clean nutty note and a spicy, bready backbone.

Their Pale Ale didn’t have a cheeky name maybe because it was a more subtle approachable beer. It takes a while to open up but it finishes with grapefruit citrus and a caramel malt.

An Imperial pilsner is a unique style and that’s how to describe the Merman. It’s the highest in alcohol so far (6.9%) and you can certainly taste that alcohol bite that comes through after the dank aroma and spicy hop flavors. I’m surprised they’re calling this an Imperial pilsner and would have guessed this was closer to a big bold pale ale.

I had to take The Plunge next, which is their winter seasonal. I’ve seen this around town on beer shelves, but it’s certainly fresher here. This is another strong beer, but it is more subtle and balanced with some complex wintery flavors. Aromas of meat and smoke are overtaken by the taste, which are mostly warming spices like ginger and cloves. Very nice this time of year.

One of their most popular beers is their Overpass IPA (IPA’s are always the most popular). This is another bottled option, but a small batch is made here for the bar. It’s a more subtle IPA with peppery, piney notes and a strong addition of tropical fruity hops.

The bar staff was very excited about the special Hot Toddy and once I tasted it, I could understand why. This ale is inspired by the winter drink made with honey, cinnamon, lemon, and then aged on whiskey barrel staves. They serve both a hot and cold version. Since I am a big whiskey fan, I absolutely loved this.

And finally, we come to the style that is taking the beer world by storm and I’m a little mixed about it. It’s their Hard Root Beer. They’ve received a lot of press for it and other breweries have begun to make an alocholic version of the sassafras soda. If you like root beer, there’s no reason you wouldn’t like this. It tastes just like the soda with a hint of vanilla and licorice. It’s very sweet and since I grew up loving root beer, this is very nostalgic for me. It just doesn’t really taste like beer. It’s kind of its own product. And it is very very dangerous since it’s 5.8% but it’s very easy to convnce yourself you are just drinking soda since the alcohol flavor is very faint.

Now is the time to come and check out this brewery since you’ll have the place to yourself and can really concentrate on the beer and the neighborhood. But if you’re someone who likes the crowds and must have the sun in Coney Island, well then wait a bit, but just make sure you add this brewery to your itinerary along with the Freak Show and the Wonder Wheel.

Is Coney Island Brewing Company the best brewery in NY? 8 out of 10 since the tasting room at the tip of Brooklyn is a lot of fun. That’s where you can take a tour, chat with the bartenders, and enjoy the freshest and most unique of their line-up.

Is Coney Island Brewing Company’s Mermaid Pilsner the best beer in NY? It’s a strangely fruity pilsner, but is still light and crisp so gets a 7 out of 10.

Is Coney Island Brewing Company’s Russian Imperial Kvass the best beer in NY? 9 out of 10 for being very unique and different with a bready, yeasty finish and a spicy, nutty beginning.

Is Coney Island Brewing Company’s Pale Ale the best beer in NY? It might be the most forgettable of the ones I tried, but it’s subtle and balanced with both a grapefruit hop and a malt backbone. 8 out of 10.

Is Coney Island Brewing Company’s Merman Imperial Pilsner the best beer in NY? I think it’s misnamed so it gets a 7 out of 10 because it is much bigger and bolder than I expect a pilsner to be, but the hoppiness and strong alcohol bite lives up to its imperial designation.

Is Coney Island Brewing Company’s The Plunge the best beer in NY? It’s an excellent gingery, spicy, smoky winter beer that doesn’t have too big of a body and for that it earns an 8 out of 10.

Is Coney Island Brewing Company’s Overpass IPA the best beer in NY? 8 out of 10 for some nice peppery and piney notes bolstered with tropical fruit flavors.

Is Coney Island Bewing Company’s Hot Toddy the best beer in NY? I’m a sucker for beer and for hot toddys and this sweet, strong gingery concoction brings those two together seamlessly for a 9 out of 10.

Is Coney Island Brewing Company’s Hard Root Beer the best beer in NY? It’s technically a beer since it’s made with malt and hops, but really just tastes like a soda. For those that love root beer, this is a home run. In the beer category, I’ll give it a 7 out of 10.