#23 – GUL AE MAN DOO at HAN SHIN POCHA

Once again Time Out New York released their Top 100 Dishes of the year and once again, I’m going to eat my way through every one. And no price point or subway delay will stop me. In no particular order, here’s my take on their Top 100.

SADLY, HAN SHIN POCHA IS NOW CLOSED.

For a few reasons, Han Shin Pocha was a little difficult to find. First off, it’s in Flushing and not near the hub of Main Street (or the 7 train). In fact, Mapquest told me the quickest way to get there was to take the Long Island Railroad!

Secondly, I looked up at the marquees of the storefronts along 149th Place (doesn’t that just sound far away?) and didn’t see the words “Han Shin Pocha” anywhere among all the dive bars. Luckily I had the address (and I can count) so I discovered our destination baring the name GuGongTan Inc. (and some Korean words which I can only imagine are pronounced Han Shin Pocha).

Once we settled in to the basement-like restaurant and marveled at the graffiti on the walls and the very East Village vibe, I realized this is the true definition of the word “find.” The English speaking waiters beamed at us wondering how we made it to this neighborhood and how we stumbled into their little haunt. Since it’s deep in Flushing, I imagine they don’t get a whole lot of NYC commuters, but if this spot were in the East Village (where it would belong comfortably), I bet we’d be waiting for a table – even on a cold Tuesday night like tonight.

We were given a complimentary salad and a big bowl of soup before we even ordered. I mean we could have feasibly enjoyed the starters and walked out without ordering. But I wouldn’t do that because I had to get a Time Out list item. Oh, and because I’m an honest guy.

We quickly ordered the list item, the Gul ae Man doo. I know mandoo are Korean dumplings, but the “Gul ae” part must hint at something closer to a fried crepe. What we got looked like big pancakes that were stuffed with a combination of ground pork and beef, chives, and clear noodles.

In my book, these are closer to scallion pancakes than dumplings. But there’s a wide definition of dumplings and as long as it’s dough stuffed with more food, I guess it counts as dumplings. They were crunchy (albeit a little greasy) and had some nice interior textures. I loved the crispy vegetables and the surprising softness of the noodles. The meat was cooked with some spices and garlic and it had a strong, peppery flavor. A dip in chili or soy sauce brought these back into the world of dumplings.

The other dish we got was a doozy. Each table was decked out with a huge charcoal grill so we figured we had to order some grub to cook. Since it was the house speciality, we ordered a seafood platter and got an amazing array of fresh clams (all different sizes), king crab legs, head-on shrimp, mussels, sea snails, and stuffed scallops. And then, with a little aid from our newfound waiter friends, the grilling commenced. It was fun to watch the clams open in front of our eyes offering up their juicy plump meat. You can never say that at the Melting Pot.

With a huge QB beer (the Bud of Korea), some tongs, and a blazing fire, we had a blast at Han Shin Pocha. The restaurant was a fun combination of a Japanese izakaya (which I’ve mentioned are pubs that specialize in an assortment of authentic bar food) and a Korean BBQ joint, but with more interaction and showiness. It had that grungy pub vibe, along with fresh and affordable seafood and a hospitable staff.

The waiter urged us to come back and try the steamed seafood, which he said he preferred. I can’t imagine it being quite as amusing, but I trust this place. Everything we tasted was flavorful and reeked of authenticity. And with all the excitement that came afterward, I sort of forgot why we came here in the first place as those dumplings became a distant memory. I just prayed we could find our way home without resorting to the LIRR.

Would Han Shin Pocha’s Gul Ae Man Doo make my Top 100 of the year? By the time the main course rolled around, I sort of forgot about these dumplings which were crispy and filling, but not the best part of this great dining experience. The dish itself gets a 7 out of 10 but the restaurant rates much higher.