#17 – CHICKEN BISCUIT at PIES ‘N’ THIGHS

Once again Time Out New York released their Top 100 Dishes of the year and once again, I’m going to eat my way through every one. And no price point or subway delay will stop me. In no particular order, here’s my take on their Top 100.

Fried Chicken has become somewhat of a cliche in Brooklyn. Somehow the South has moved to Kings County because just like california rolls are compulsory for a sushi joint, you’re not really taken seriously in the new dining scene in Brooklyn if you don’t do a version of fried chicken.

But Pies ‘n’ Thighs was one of the first in Williamsburg to offer their take on the classic Southern dish. The restaurant used to be a total dirty dive under the bridge. So dirty in fact that in 2008 they were shut down by the Health Department. But last year they got the gang back together and re-opened in a different location and with a better sense of hygiene.

I’ve been hearing so much about this place since they re-opened, but was always a little worried about my waistline. I could do fried chicken and I could pies, but in one meal? Okay, I guess if you twist my arm.

We got to Pies ‘n’ Thighs rather late (which is not my favorite time to eat food like this anymore) so I wanted to order as light as possible. That’s not really supposed to be a joke, but I see why it’s funny. The place was still full around 9:00 but we got a seat and some menus. The service was almost non-existent, but friendly and warm when we did experience it. We had to get the Chicken Biscuit and I thought that might be enough to get a taste of their famous fried chicken. So instead of a whole other order of thighs, we picked the Pulled Pork Sandwich (which was good, but nothing mindblowing) with some flavorful collard greens and awesome mac ‘n’ cheese. And we even saved room for a banana cream pie, which very well could have also been on Time Out’s list. See, I told you: light.

The food all came at once (except the pie) and I immediately tore into the chicken biscuit. Oh my God! Regardless of how late it was, this was pretty amazing. The biscuit may have been the best I’ve ever had. It was crispy and firm on the exterior, but had a buttery flakiness as I bit into it. Sandwiched between the biscuit was a piece of chicken breast that had been battered and fried. As if that wasn’t enough, the whole thing was slathered with hot sauce and drizzled with honey. Once again: Oh my God!

The sweet honey and the kick from the hot sauce were a beautiful contrast with each other. In many ways, I wish we had also ordered the fried chicken basket to get a sense of their traditional version. I could tell the chicken in the biscuit was moist and tender, but I had a hard time getting the flavor and texture of the batter. There was so much going on and my palate can only handle so much at once. This wasn’t a problem for loving the chicken biscuit, but it means I’ll have to come back for their fried chicken – as cliched as that sounds.

Would Pies ‘n’ Thighs Chicken Biscuit make my Top 100 of the year? Most likely, since it gets a 9 out of 10 for its spicy sweetness, moist white meat, and perfect biscuit. This works for breakfast, lunch, or even a late-night dinner. Oh my God!