#13 – WONTON WITH HOT SAUCE (#6) at WHITE BEAR

Once again Time Out New York released their Top 100 Dishes of the year and once again, I’m going to eat my way through every one. And no price point or subway delay will stop me. In no particular order, here’s my take on their Top 100.

I love when the TONY list and my current food search intersect. Last year, during my pizza adventure, I went to Saraghina, Roberta’s, and Salvatore of Soho. And it wasn’t only because I was searching for the best pizza in the city, but also because all three spots were represented on Time Out’s list. This time around, I would’ve eventually found myself out at White Bear in Flushing for their dumplings, but Time Out just sped up the process.

When we walked into the confusing little spot (the marquee outside advertises both real estate and ice cream), the Chinese man behind the counter took one look at us and told us we were having #6. It seemed he didn’t have any time for indecision or perusing the menu. Yes, we showed up at 7pm and the empty restaurant would be closing in less than an hour. But he somehow knew exactly what we wanted. We must have looked like Time Out readers.

Truth be told, the Wontons with Hot Sauce (also known as #6), is probably White Bear’s most popular dish – especially among any Caucasian types wielding around a camera and a critical foodie blog palette. We stick out like a sore thumb – especially in these non-gentrified Chinese joints.

The wontons arrived looking incredibly spicy. Based on my previous experience with Flushing restaurants, Time Out’s list items, and Time Out’s list items in Flushing, I was prepared for a tongue scorcher. I have to say I was slightly disappointed.

Believe it or not, my big criticism with these was the lack of heat. There was a little bit of spice from the chili oil-soaked scallions and garlic, but not a lot of flavor in the bright red sauce itself. I found that strange and surprising.

The wontons themselves were incredibly silky and delicate and covered in a delicious pork and chive filling. I found these (and #19) to be some of the best dumplings I’ve tasted in New York so far. The skins were perfectly tender and soft and the insides were flavorful and juicy. And aside from the lack of heat from the toppings, there was quite a bit going on. I loved the crunchy texture from the scallions and pickled ginger. I even ate the sauce and garnish by themselves once the wontons were all gone. I probably wouldn’t have done that if the heat had been overwhelming.

The only thing I really fault them for is maybe a little false advertising (or high expectations on my part). And besides not having really hot hot sauce, White Bear also doesn’t sell ice cream (as one might believe from their sign outside).

Would White Bear’s Wontons with Hot Sauce (#6) make my Top 100 of the year? They get an 8 out of 10 because they’re incredibly tasty, soft, and textured so I shouldn’t complain if the hot sauce wasn’t as potent as expected.