If you’re ordering a corned beef and pastrami sandwich, you better be prepared for some fat. No matter how hard you try to only eat half a sandwich or order the meat extra lean (and I try both), you’re bound to clog an artery or two. It’s just part of the game.
But now, I’d rather not see the fat. I guess I’m just as bad as the carnivore who doesn’t want to know where his meat comes from. And I do have a hard time watching a lamb being butchered. I don’t want to think about the fact that my hamburger was once grazing around a farm. So I prefer fat that is well-marbled throughout rather than a big chunk of fat on the side of my meat. I would never eat the leftover lard from a prime rib, but would have no problem devouring a well-dispersed and marbled kobe steak.
The fat on the corned beef at Mill Basin Kosher Delicatessen was pretty dispersed but it seemed to almost overwhelm the meat. There were little nuggets of deliciously buttery pickled meat, but the fat definitely outweighed the protein. The pastrami didn’t seem quite as fatty, but the smoky spicy flavors were there and scrumptious.
I had been wanting to come to Mill Basin earlier on my journey, but it takes some commitment and time to get out here. It’s all the way on the outskirts of Brooklyn. There isn’t even a subway that comes directly to the restaurant. I had to take a subway to a bus and watch the Brooklyn neighborhoods change for a good thirty to forty minutes. You can’t forget how big this city is (counting all five boroughs)! The ride out to Mill Basin was pleasant enough, but it was difficult finding my way back as the direct bus stop was tough to find and I had to take another bus and transfer to another subway station. And as long as that took, I could have walked and burned off some of those calories.
When I did arrive at Mill Basin, which is located in the very quaint and suburban neighborhood of the same name (it’s on Avenue T, if that gives you any sense of how far it is), I was surprised and impressed by how crowded it was on a weekday afternoon. It was so removed from the city that it reminded me of the suburban delis in South Florida that I grew up on. But as soon as I entered, the intense aromas of pickled meat pervaded the air and I realized I was in fact within the five boroughs.
One of the cool (kitschy?) things about this deli is that they are also a full-on modern art gallery. The owners have collected works of such famous artists as Marc Chagall and Roy Lichtenstein. So instead of having a collection of celebrity photos hanging on all the walls, there’s real art! You can experience a nirvana of great comfort food while critiquing the works of Erte.
Besides the fatty corned beef (which some would look at as a good thing), my only real complaint was that the pickles and cole slaw were not automatically delivered to the table. The bus boy asked me if I wanted them. Seriously? Maybe they’re trying to prevent waste, but this is a Jewish deli. That’s like asking if you want cheese on your pizza.
I should also mention the latke chips. I read about them before coming out to Mill Basin and even though I had already ordered enough fat calories, I figured I wasn’t sure when I would get out here again so just had to try them. And I’m very glad I did. They were a creative treat. The latkes are sliced thin and fried until crispy so that they really are somewhere between a pancake and a potato chip. Greasy doesn’t do it justice, but delicious will suffice.
And with all that fat and greasy, I left satisfied (if a bit bloated). No wonder I fell asleep on the subway ride home. And I dreamt of deli sandwiches, Art Deco, and long commutes.
Is Mill Basin Deli the best corned beef/pastrami in NY? The corned beef is a bit fatty for my tastes, but it tastes great and the pastrami’s deep flavors helped round out the sandwich. With an 8 out of 10 score, it’s close to a work of art.
