TONY's 100 Best '09

#73 – SHACK STACK at SHAKE SHACK

As I waited in the 90 minute line at Shake Shack, I realized this is not the first time I’ve done something crazy like this and it probably won’t be the last.

Unlike anywhere else I’ve been (except maybe Disney World), New Yorkers will wait in line for almost anything. Especially if it’s free or if it’s been written about and exploited.

Shake Shack proves my hypothesis because it is not uncommon for the line to wrap around the edge of Madison Square Park. And all this for a burger, fries, and a shake.

I’ve been to Shake Shack (both at this original location and the newer Upper East Side indoor spot) a few times before. It’s no doubt one of the most popular burgers in the city (hence the long line) and it’s run by my boss, Danny Meyer (he also runs my restaurant The Modern), who just happens to be the most successful restaurateur in all of New York (and perhaps the nation).

The concept is brilliant and so simple. A good old fashioned burger stand (or shake, in this case) in the middle of a park. They also happen to rely on fresh local ingredients and sustainable products. It’s all the perfect recipe for a successful food empire.

And judging by the line, it’s working. This particular Saturday was the longest I’ve ever seen it and for some reason, it was the one we chose to attempt the next list item. The Shack Stack.

At Shake Shack, you can order a single, a double, or a Shack Stack (the next list item). Let me tell you about this beast: it’s a single patty of beef burger topped with cheese and then finished with their gigantic deep-fried and cheese stuffed portabello mushroom. It’s overwhelming in every sense but I waited this long, there was no turning back now.

You know, I didn’t love it. Maybe if I hadn’t waited in this huge expectation building line, I would have been more on board. But I found the fried mushroom to overpower the flavor of the burger. All I could taste when I bit into the sandwich was cheese and breading. Where’s the beef?

The burger itself is good, but I find it lacks seasoning. It tastes like a less processed chain fast food option. Not as exciting and groundbreaking as the eternal line (or Time Out New York) leads you to believe. I’ll have to check the Shack Cam (an option on their website that will show you the visual wait time) before I go next time. Because as cute and green as Shake Shack is, it’s not worth this wait!

Would Shake Shack’s Shack Stack make my Top 100 of the year? I find this gutbomb of a burger to be overwhelming and while it’s a tasty gimmick, it gets a 6out of 10 because I prefer to be able to taste the meat rather than overwhelm it with crispy fried cheese.

AboutBrian Hoffman

Brian Hoffman is a classically trained actor who is now a full-time tour guide, blogger, and food obsessive. He leads food and drink tours around New York City, which not only introduce tour-goers to delicious food, but gives them a historical context. He has written food articles for Gothamist and Midtown Lunch in addition to overseeing this blog and a few food video series, including Eat This, Locals Know, and Around the World in One City. His latest series is an international cooking show with his son which can be found on this site.

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