SADLY, ARTIE’S DELICATESSEN IS NOW CLOSED.
Corned beef and pastrami were introduced to New York in the late 19th Century. And shortly thereafter, came the deli, the combo sandwich, and finally the Alka Seltzer.
And the classic NY delis haven’t all been around from the very beginning (although Katz’s opened in 1888), but they have been around for a long time. Fine & Schapiro opened in 1927, Carnegie Deli started slicing meat in 1937, and 2nd Avenue Deli has been in business (in one location or another) since 1954. And Artie’s Delicatessen on the Upper West Side has been around since… 1999?
Alright, so it doesn’t have the same longevity that the classic guys do, but it certainly has the look. The huge restaurant is designed to look like a Jewish deli circa 1930-something. It has black and white checkered floors, classic window lettering, and hanging salamis at every turn. Surprisingly, I couldn’t find any wall with celebrity photos. That’s when you realize this place has not been around that long. The famous people haven’t discovered it yet!
I’m all for reviving the classic NY delis and making sure a new generation gets to experience them, but what frustrated me about Artie’s is that everywhere I looked, I got a sense that they had stolen certain ideas from the other guys. I noticed the soup is served the exact same way it is at 2nd Avenue Deli (where it’s poured at the table) and the sign offering catering for “My Son’s Becoming A Doctor Party” was reminiscent of the “Send Your Boy a Salami” offer at Katz’s. Only this is the Upper West Side version, where all good Jewish boys become doctors.
So the place felt a little stale and recycled. I also learned that their pastrami recipe actually comes from Bernstein-on-Essex, a classic, now-shuttered deli that was once on the Lower East Side. Even the food is derivative?
On the bright side, Artie’s has gotten lots of positive reviews on the web. The one recurring complaint is their lack of consistency. And when I spoke to one of the managers and he told me they just changed owners 15 minutes ago (seriously!), I can understand the difficulty in staying consistent.
At the table, I was immediately impressed by the Artie’s logo affixed to the mustard bottle. Not with the printing job (although that was nice and all), but with the fact that they make their own mustard. It’s good to know they go beyond marrying Gulden’s bottles together. And their mustard was good.
It cut some of the vinegary flavors of the meat. I found the corned beef to be a bit chewy and dry, while the pastrami had a smoky flavor and was a bit more tender. I didn’t find the meat to be too greasy, but it also didn’t melt in my mouth the way I like. And the rye flavor of the bread was a bit overwhelming at times.
It was a decent sandwich, but not as good or innovative as a deli that’s been slicing meat for the last 80 years. And I can’t fault Artie’s for being a newbie, but I think they need to keep practicing and try an angle all their own. I want to feel like I’m in a classic deli (which Artie’s accomplishes), but I want it to be different from all the rest. Something old, but something new.
Is Artie’s Delicatessen the best corned beef/pastrami in the city? For the moment, it gets a 6 out of 10, but I think with a few more years under its belt and some fresh ideas, this place could end up a classic.
