Every week, I document another dish that impressed and satiated me during my food adventures around New York City
I almost never order a classic martini at dinner. If I’m going to get a cocktail, I’ll try to choose one that is unique and surprising. A martini is certainly reliant on the skills of a bartender, but at the end of the day, I know what to expect.
Yet our special dinner at Gage & Tollner almost required me to order a traditional martini. It didn’t make sense not to.
Gage & Tollner is a re-vamp of a classic Brooklyn restaurant that has been re-imagined and changed hands many times of the years. The space eventually left the fine dining world and became both an Arby’s and a cell phone store.
But the food world cheered when Brooklyn restaurateurs St. John Frizell, Ben Schneider, and Shoji Kim brought Gage & Tollner back to life officially in 2021.
The food reflects the history and traditions of both the space and the old-school New York dining scene. Seafood, steaks, and of course, martinis.
Frizell (who is also the cocktail maven behind the great Fort Defiance) is a master at the bar and so the martini list (which is more extensive than you’d think) is both traditional and eye-opening.
Of course, based on my desire to try something new, I ordered something I had never heard about, but realized is indeed a traditional martini variation. The Turf Martini, or the Turf Club.
Garnished with a fresh lemon peel, the drink is as crisp and smooth as you could possibly hope for. It also has a subtle herbal backbone that I really enjoy.
Smooth, mellow Plymouth gin provides the base, which is stirred with the usual dry vermouth but also maraschino liqueur (very different from maraschino cherries) which gives the tipple a very subtle cherry and almond note. And then some absinthe and orange bitters top it all off rounding the cocktail out and making it a bit too fun to drink.
This was a very pleasant and luxurious way to start our meal. Stay tuned to read about how we ended it. Price: $18
| GAGE & TOLLNER |
| 372 Fulton Street (at Smith Street), Downtown Brooklyn, Brooklyn (347) 689-3677 |
| gageandtollner.com |
