Every week, I document another dish that impressed and satiated me during my food adventures around New York City
Gabriel Kreuther is a pretty well-known name in the groups I run in. First off, he is an established and highly praised Alasatian chef in the New York food world (Michelin stars and everything). And secondly, I used to work at The Modern, the restaurant for which he received 3 stars in the New York Times.
I worked alongside him every day, but we barely exchanged words and I rarely ate the food he cooked. I worked at the Bar Room, which was a more casual version of his Dining Room menu. He definitely oversaw the recipes, but the service was run by some of his sous chefs. That being said, I once had dinner at the Dining Room and he provided us with a fantastic meal.
So on my birthday this past year, I was super excited to try his brand new restaurant bearing his name. The sleek dining room has already received high praise and the 4 course menu is a bit more affordable as far as fancy fine dining establishments in New York go.
Our meal was very memorable from the amuse trio of corn (served on half a grilled corn cob) to a refreshing and sweet melon soup to the showy smoked sturgeon and sauerkraut tart. I could even write another post about the phenomenal desserts from his longtime friend and pastry chef Marc Aumont, but this restaurant is called Gabriel Kreuther and its one of his savory entreés that I want to feature.
After two smaller courses, I was served the berkshire pork tenderloin which was as good as meat gets. I never understand how these super fancy French restaurants take a piece of meat and just melt it. Perhaps butter, but also the perfect technique is involved.
And so this round block of pink, tender, perfectly seasoned porcine was as good as it gets. The Alsatian notes come alive with earthy caramelized fennel, nubs of bitter broccoli rabe, and tangy balls of pickled mustard seeds. Also hiding on the plate was a nice hidden treat: a blackened charred nugget of morcilla (blood sausage).
Gabriel Kreuther might not become an everyday household name but anyone who tastes his food will surely remember him. Price: $125 for a four-course meal
|41 West 42nd Street (between Fifth and Sixth Avenue),
Inside the Grace Building