Every week, I document another dish that impressed and satiated me during my food adventures around New York City

BÂTARD, 239 West Broadway (between White and Walker Street), TribecaGoing into the James Beard nominated Bâtard, there were two dishes I knew I had to get. This fancy (but approachable) new restaurant in the old Corton space in Tribeca has gotten rave reviews across the board. And the two dishes everybody talks about are the octopus “pastrami” and the caramelized milk bread dessert.

We tried both, among some other delicate dishes, in our $69 3-course meal (a bargain in the overly expensive New York fine dining scene). The food was all very refined and technical, but nothing really wowed me. Not even that rather bland octopus pastrami which was a chewy terrine dotted with ingredients that hinted at pastrami (rye croutons, mustard, spices).

Although everything changed when we got to dessert. I’m not generally a fan of bread desserts. They’re usually too dry and carby for me. I like ice cream and mousses. Or chocolate and caramel. This came out looking like broken french toast. I wasn’t interested in breakfast. But this was absolutely spectacular.

Caramelized Milk Bread at BÂTARD

 

The caramelized milk bread is indeed the lovechild of French toast and creme brulée. Breaking its sugary shell leads to a confundingly moist bite of sweet brioche bread. On the plate is some brown butter ice cream which enhances and softens the bread and it’s all brightened up by a sweet and tart blueberry sauce.

Do indeed put this dish on your must list. It’s not something I would have ordered on my own (without all the reviews pushing me toward it), but I assure you it’s worth the price of admission.

BÂTARD
239 West Broadway (between White and Walker Street),
Tribeca
(212) 219-2777
batardtribeca.com

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About the Author

Brian Hoffman is a classically trained actor who is now a full-time tour guide, blogger, and food obsessive. He leads food and drink tours around New York City, which not only introduce tour-goers to delicious food, but gives them a historical context. He also writes food articles for Gothamist and Midtown Lunch in addition to overseeing this blog and a few food video series, including Eat This, Locals Know, and Around the World in One City.

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