DISH OF THE WEEK: Day Boat Scallops at MEADOWSWEET

Every week, I document another dish that impressed and satiated me during my food adventures around New York City

One of the most beautiful yet maddening things about many seasonal American restaurants is that their menus change constantly. Sometimes a new menu is printed up every day.

I went into Meadowsweet hoping to try their much-written about Ricotta Cuscino. It’s a rolled pasta that sounded absolutely delicious. Many publications have featured it on “Best Dishes” articles. Yet not even a fair amount of press could keep it on their menu.

Instead we ordered an amazing cavatelli with braised oxtail and some herbed ricotta; a flavorful but slightly dry pork chop; and a nice, bright salad with fried artichokes.

All of this took place in a breezy dining room in South Williamsburg in the former Dressler space. Dressler was one of the first restaurants to bring a high-end food ethic to the neighborhood when it opened in 2006. Sadly, it closed in 2013 but its chef Polo Dobkin is back in the old space with this new neighborhood restaurant. And it’s one that any neighborhood would be lucky to have,

In addition to the above-mentioned dishes, we had an appetizer that should never leave their menu. But it probably will. The Dayboat Scallops were perfectly prepared. The two meaty nuggets had a wonderful browned crust that enhanced the richness of the dish. Butter was the main flavor, but not just any pedestrian butter – caramelized butter with earthy notes (from plump mushrooms), saltiness (crisp pancetta), and a lovely sweet sunchoke pureé singing together in perfect buttery harmony.

It was one of the best dishes I have tasted in a long while. The small portion was a bit frustrating because it left me wanting more. And I have a strong feeling that once I return to Meadowsweet, it will be a distant memory. The only good thing about this situation is that I have no doubt something just as delicious will replace it.