Every week, I document another dish that impressed and satiated me during my food adventures around New York City
High-end Chinese restaurants are few and far between. Especially in Chinatown itself. Most people would say if you are paying more than two dollars for a plate of dumplings, you are paying way too much.
Well, Wilson Tang, the current owner of old-time dim sum parlor Nom Wah is looking to change that. While the aforementioned joint is still casual and cheap, his most recent venture, Fung Tu, attempts to bring class and refinement back to American Chinese food.
My dinner there a few weeks ago was excellent, but the price was high (the numerous small plates add up). Yet I can justify spending a bit more on this food since the quality and precision is better than you’d expect at a typical Chinese take-out spot.
Cases in point: The fried pork chops were tender and greaseless with tangy pickled cabbage, the pomegranate seeds in the brisket fried rice added a crunch and a brightness, and the egg rolls were plump and had a rich pork belly and olive filling.
But the dish that succeeded the most for me was literally just two bites. Dates stuffed with duck are a play on a classic Cantonese dish of dates stuffed with red bean. I think the duck probably works better. The bird is seasoned perfectly with sweet and savory notes that play nicely with the smoky, crisp, sweet character of the fried dates. It’s unlike any Chinese dish I have ever tasted.
Alongside small plates and entrees, there is a $60 Tasting Menu and a full wine list available at Fung Tu. I dare you to find either of those things at any other restaurant in Chinatown.
|22 Orchard Street (between Canal Street and Hester Street),
Lower East Side