Every week, I document another dish that impressed and satiated me during my food adventures around New York City

MORGAN'S BBQ, 267 Flatbush Avenue (at St. Marks Avenue), Prospect Heights, Brooklyn

 

Some might call me a barbecue snob. And I suppose they’d be right. I just have very high expectations for barbecue, having spent time in parts of Tennessee, North Carolina, and the mecca of American barbecue, Texas. So when I tweeted out disappointments about some of last year’s hot new NYC barbecue joints, it’s from a desire for the smoked meat to be really good. I can’t explain why some major food critics gushed over some of these joints.

There was indeed some stellar barbecue this year (Briskettown, Fletcher’s), but the one that impressed me the most opened up quietly at the end of the year. Sure, Morgan’s BBQ was packed when we went in for some meat, but it hasn’t reached the over-the-top hype saturation as some of the other BBQ openings.

Yet Morgan’s BBQ deserves all that attention. John Avila is the pitmaster and he cut his teeth (and ribs) at Franklin’s in Austin, one of the most celebrated and popular barbecue joints in the country. That sounds impressive on paper, but I wasn’t sure this was the real deal until I bit into the fatty brisket.
Fatty Brisket at MORGAN'S BBQ
The expertly seasoned meat is the best example of Texas brisket in New York. Although sauce was on the table, it was not necessary as all the flavors of smoke, pepper, and meaty goodness oozed from the meat, It also had the perfect amount of fat that allowed for deep flavors and a tender disintegration, while maintaining a pleasant mouthfeel. It made this barbecue snob melt with delight.
MORGAN’S BBQ
267 Flatbush Avenue (at St. Marks Avenue),
Prospect Heights, Brooklyn
(718) 622-2224
morgansbarbecue.com
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About the Author

Brian Hoffman is a classically trained actor who is now a full-time tour guide, blogger, and food obsessive. He leads food and drink tours around New York City, which not only introduce tour-goers to delicious food, but gives them a historical context. He also writes food articles for Gothamist and Midtown Lunch in addition to overseeing this blog and a few food video series, including Eat This, Locals Know, and Around the World in One City.

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