Every week, I document another dish that impressed and satiated me during my food adventures around New York City
There was something about every dish at Estela that made me take notice. And to tell you the truth, I wasn’t surprised by all the surprises.
Chef Ignacio Mattos is in some ways a mad scientist of food. I got to taste his bonkers menu at Isa in Williamsburg in that restaurant’s early days. Everything was unexpected and unexpectedly delicious.
And so it was at the new restaurant on Houston Street. The menu puts surprising spins on Spanish tapas, like a rich steak tartare tossed with beef heart and sunchoke chips or an incredible h0memade burrata with smoky grilled bread and a bright, herbal salsa verde.
The presentation of the ricotta dumplings was rather stark, but once I destroyed the white artwork many colors emerged. Thin slices of raw buttom mushrooms began to cook and melt onto the hidden dumplings. Those cheesy orbs were light and airy adding to the earthy flavors of the mushrooms, onions, and salty pecorino hiding in the rich broth.
Chef Mattos has made me take notice and I’m excited to taste the other out of the ordinary, but perfectly extraordinary dishes he provides.
|47 East Houston Street (between Mulberry and Mott Street),