Every week, I document another dish that impressed and satiated me during my food adventures around New York City

ESTELA, 47 East Houston Street (between Mulberry and Mott Street), Nolita

There was something about every dish at Estela that made me take notice. And to tell you the truth, I wasn’t surprised by all the surprises.

Chef Ignacio Mattos is in some ways a mad scientist of food. I got to taste his bonkers menu at Isa in Williamsburg in that restaurant’s early days. Everything was unexpected and unexpectedly delicious.

And so it was at the new restaurant on Houston Street. The menu puts surprising spins on Spanish tapas, like a rich steak tartare tossed with beef heart and sunchoke chips or an incredible h0memade burrata with smoky grilled bread and a bright, herbal salsa verde.

Ricotta Dumplings at ESTELA

The presentation of the ricotta dumplings was rather stark, but once I destroyed the white artwork many colors emerged. Thin slices of raw buttom mushrooms began to cook and melt onto the hidden dumplings. Those cheesy orbs were light and airy adding to the earthy flavors of the mushrooms, onions, and salty pecorino hiding in the rich broth.

Chef Mattos has made me take notice and I’m excited to taste the other out of the ordinary, but perfectly extraordinary dishes he provides.

ESTELA
47 East Houston Street (between Mulberry and Mott Street),
Nolita

(212) 219-7693
estelany.com
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About the Author

Brian Hoffman is a classically trained actor who is now a full-time tour guide, blogger, and food obsessive. He leads food and drink tours around New York City, which not only introduce tour-goers to delicious food, but gives them a historical context. He also writes food articles for Gothamist and Midtown Lunch in addition to overseeing this blog and a few food video series, including Eat This, Locals Know, and Around the World in One City.

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