NEW KID ON THE BLOCK (Panda Dumpling House)

My search for the best dumplings in New York continues….

SADLY, PANDA DUMPLING HOUSE IS NOW CLOSED.

Most of the cheap restaurants in Chinatown feel like such institutions. They’re old, no frills, and authentic. Especially on Eldridge, both Prosperity and Vanessa’s have had the market on dumplings for so long that it’s hard to imagine a new cheap dumpling joint opening up and fitting right in.

But that’s just what happened with Panda Dumpling House, which is conveniently located right between Prosperity and Vanessa’s. It’s larger than the former and less chaotic than the latter. The menu veers closer to the Northern Chinese cuisine you’d find at Xi’an Famous Food. There are even cold skin noodles and Chinese burgers on the menu.

While it may sound like an Asian-American food court staple, Panda is serving much more authentic and delicious food and at unbeatable prices (unless you go up the street). I got the order of 5 fried dumplings for $1 and finished it off with 8 boiled varieties for $2. With a bottle of water, I didn’t even have to break a 5.

Each of the fried dumplings had an attractive browned char on one side yet did not seem to be swimming in grease or oil. The wrappers were chewy and revealed a sweet pork and chive filling.

The meat was darker (perhaps from some sauce) than usual, but tasted just as fresh and flavorful as any others I’ve had on this block.

I usually prefer the boiled dumplings since they have a less firm wrapper. These did not disappoint. Slipping and sliding, I found them difficult to pick up with my chopsticks. Could it have been that long since I ate dumplings? When they cooled a bit, I had some success and bit in. There wasn’t too much juice as is sometimes the case, but the sweet, earthy pork was moist and helped bring to life the doughy casings.

It’s hard to imagine a new $1 dumpling joint giving the two neighboring icons a run for their money, but Panda does a mighty fine job. There’s a bit more sweetness from the marinated pork filling and the sugar-tinged dumpling sauce (although a splash of Sriracha works wonders) and the sears might be slightly more refined.

So while everybody may have their personal favorite, I think we have three winners and it’s only a matter of time before Panda becomes an institution in its own right.

Does Panda Dumpling House have the best dumplings in NY? They rival their neighbors although they’re different enough that I can’t really give any one of them the edge. Flip a coin and you’ll be happy with another 8 out of 10 and still have coins left over.