TONY's 100 Best '10

#83 – JERK CHICKEN at BARRY’S JERK DELIGHT

Once again Time Out New York released their Top 100 Dishes of the year and once again, I’m going to eat my way through every one. And no price point or subway delay will stop me. In no particular order, here’s my take on their Top 100.

Most people would throw in the towel right now. I’m not most people.

Technically, I’ve failed. One of my Time Out list items is unattainable. Barry’s Jerk Delights, which supposedly served some amazing jerk chicken, is no longer open. I had been calling for a few days and the number had been temporarily disconnected. I tried not to freak out and chalked it up to maybe a changed phone number.

But when we arrived in a rough neighborhood of the Bronx and looked for the storefront that matched Barry’s address, we found something that was not on Time Out’s list: a shuttered storefront with a sign reading, “Coming Soon: Richie Rich Caribbean Taste”. Where was Barry’s? Looks like we were too late. I guess Barry’s has gone out of business.

I was really craving some spicy jerk chicken too – not to mention eager to get another list item. Since I did go up to where Barry’s was supposed to be and did everything I could (aside from traveling back in time) to taste the list item, I’m going to check it off and use this space to talk about another jerk chicken that I think deserves mention.

Veronica’s Kitchen is one of the carts I frequent on my downtown food cart tour. And she serves the best jerk chicken I’ve ever had. It’s served on the bone, but Veronica’s culinary techniques is no match for that bone. The meat slides right off. The moist white meat, which is dotted with dark-drown spices and flecks of red chilies, melted away with each delicious bite. Allspice and scotch bonnet peppers are the usual main ingredients in jerk and they were ever present here. And while the heat is intense, it never gets to the point of being overwhelming.

She serves it with some spinach-flecked rice and a choice of any southern comfort side, my favorite being the soft macaroni and cheese and the intensely flavored pumpkin.

Barry’s unfortunately got away from me, but I’m still going. I’m more than 3/4 through the list and I already know there will be more bumps in the road. But like I’ve said, nothing’s going to stop me from trying all 100 dishes. I just might have to make a few adjustments. I’m sure Time Out will understand.

Would Barry Jerk Delights’ Jerk Chicken make my Top 100 of the year? I guess I’ll never know, but I assure you Veronica’s Kitchen’s version will, earning a 9 out of 10. I can only imagine it is as good, if not better than Barry’s. But for now, I’ll just have to keep imagining.

VERONICA’S KITCHEN
Front Street (at Pine Street)
Financial District

AboutBrian Hoffman

Brian Hoffman is a classically trained actor who is now a full-time tour guide, blogger, and food obsessive. He leads food and drink tours around New York City, which not only introduce tour-goers to delicious food, but gives them a historical context. He also writes food articles for Gothamist and Midtown Lunch in addition to overseeing this blog and a few food video series, including Eat This, Locals Know, and Around the World in One City.