DUMPLING REVIEW in New York: White Bear

It’s very bizarre. I thought I had put ice cream behind me (at least until the weather warms up again). But there it was on the awning of White Bear, one of the most talked about dumpling spots in Flushing. It says in big green letters: “Ice Cream” and then if you squint you can see the name “White Bear” above it. When I went inside and checked the menu, it turns out that ice cream is no where to be found. I was in the right spot for dumplings.

My only assumption is that this used to be an ice cream shop and the new dumpling makers didn’t have the energy, money, or interest in taking the Ice Cream sign down. I don’t think they meant to create one of those hidden little secrets in New York. You know, the places that seem like they’re a telephone booth or a Fortune Teller shop, but if you’re in the know, you can show all your friends it’s actually a fabulously hip bar or restaurant.

The only thing that’s hip about White Bear (besides the mis-advertising outside) is the food. The walls are clinically white and the menu is as Print Shop as it gets. But the dumplings are fantastic.

We decided to stop by on a cold Tuesday evening. The web said that they closed at 8 and we made it just after 7. As we approached, we noticed a huge line outside. I was a little worried this might be a wait for tables or a take-out line. I had read this tiny place is immensely popular. But that must be on weekend afternoons when all the food bloggers bring their friends and families to gawk at the culinary wonder of Flushing. On a Tuesday night at 7, White Bear was eerily dead. Except for the strange line outside (which I never did figure out).

When we walked in, the Chinese man peeked his head from the back and didn’t greet us or tell us to have a seat. Instead he told us, “#6”. It was actually sort of comical that he automatically assumed that’s what we wanted (or was giving us a firm suggestion). We did order the number 6 (Wontons with Hot Sauce) because it’s on my Time Out list. But I wanted more traditional dumplings so I also settled on the #19, since they were out of my first choice, Dumplings with Leeks (#20).

But #19 was plenty good enough. They were dumplings filled with Chinese cabbage and pork. In many ways, these were perfect dumplings. They were steamed to just the right texture so the wrapper was soft and tender. They weren’t too thick and gave way to a juicy interior. The pork and cabbage filling was incredibly moist and complex. There was a bit of gingery spiciness, a hint of sweetness, and a nice crunch from the cabbage.  I almost forgot to add the soy vinegar because these were perfect on their own.

You can read more about my analysis of that famous #6 in a few weeks. But for now, suffice it to say, they were beautiful and delicious wontons covered with a bright red chili sauce. They had some flavor and some really great textures from a generous garnish of pickled ginger, garlic, and shallots. But they lacked much of a punch – especially considering they’re advertised as with hot sauce. It’s funny because the bland looking regular dumplings had so much more flavor overload than the aesthetically attractive spicy ones.

Regardless, these are worth traveling out to Flushing. Just don’t expect ice cream with your dinner. And if I were you, I wouldn’t stand on that sketchy line outside. I have no idea where it might lead. And wherever it is, I guarantee the dumplings at White Bear are better.

Does White Bear have the best dumplings in NY? Very possibly. They are so simple, yet complex and full of flavor and pleasing textures. I can’t find any reason not to give them 10 out of 10.