TONY's 100 Best '09

#34 – BREAKFAST BEER at MOTO

SADLY, MOTO NOW CLOSED.

I do enjoy beer, but I’ve never been one of those “alcoholic types” who drink it in the morning.  Hair of the dog and all that, sure, but I don’t find myself sloppily hung over too much anymore.

Well, granted, by the time I got the Breakfast Beer at Moto, it was pushing 2pm, so I didn’t feel like an alcoholic in the least.  I felt like a champion.

Moto is a really cute little gem hidden under the elevated JMZ train in South Williamsburg.  You have to know where you’re going because there’s no significant signage and this place looks like it could be anything but a restaurant.

The website proclaims circa 1938 and besides all the hipsters eating their pancakes and the indie music on the speakers, this place really feels like its been pulled out of another time period.  Everything is just adorable here.  There’s a tiny little corner set up for live music in the evenings, lots of mood lighting (or lack thereof), and the bathrooms are a sight to behold.  Trust me on that, just do your business and behold the sights.

And the food is pretty good.  We got brunch since that was the only logical time they would offer their Breakfast Beer (more brilliant strategizing on my part).  We ordered the Dutch style apple pancake, which looked like it was going to be ultra-sweet, but it was just right.  The creme fraîche balanced the sweetness from the apple and the maple syrup.  And the baked ham and eggs were crispy and cheesy.  It came with really delicious grilled bread that reminded me of my experience at Coals.  And for dessert we had the date cake, which everybody seems to talk about.  It was moist and sweet, but not something I’d put on my Top 100 list.

But the Breakfast Beer did make Time Out’s Top 100.  Basically, it’s a pint of Guinness with a shot of espresso added.  Simple, easy, and rather predictable.  But it’s something I never tried before and Moto gets the credit for finally putting the combo together.  The espresso adds even more creamy head and richness to the Guinness and the two bring out the natural flavors in each other.  I guess the coffe stimulant of the beer depressant are supposed to cancel each other out.  My problem is coffee makes me tired (I’m a freak, I know) and beer makes me tired (there’s not much that doesn’t make me tired) so the drink had no effect on me.  Well, except it made me tired.  So much for drinking in the afternoon.

Would Moto’s Breakfast Beer  make my Top 100 of the year?  The flavors are obvious and complimentary and it is a nice combo for a rough hangover.  A 7 out of 10 means  I completely recognize its brilliance and its delicious flavor, but at this hour, I would rather just have an orange juice with my eggs.

AboutBrian Hoffman

Brian Hoffman is a classically trained actor who is now a full-time tour guide, blogger, and food obsessive. He leads food and drink tours around New York City, which not only introduce tour-goers to delicious food, but gives them a historical context. He also writes food articles for Gothamist and Midtown Lunch in addition to overseeing this blog and a few food video series, including Eat This, Locals Know, and Around the World in One City.